Makai

7/5/10 to present

We’ve arrived in Bocas safe & sound. Until I update the site, here’s two pictures we took in the Chagres: Makai at anchor & one of the many toucans flying about the trees.

5/20/10 to Present

It had been 10 months since we had seen Linda & Mike & it was wonderful to have the opportunity to spend time with them. Over the next six days, we visited the Western & Eastern Holandes Cays and Chichime. Sharing our love for the water, we enjoyed snorkeling & identifying the various reef fish, corals & other creatures. It was sad to watch them leave and hope we have the opportunity to cruise with them next season.

After Casa’s departure, we returned to the Western Holandes with Steve & Lili (S/V Liward) who wanted to see the Longsnout Seahorse we discovered back in April. It was truly rare event in that not only did we find the original Seahorse clinging to the same soft coral, we went on to find two more – one red and the other black with white stripes. Unfortunately, all three have since ‘moved’ on.

Longsnouted Seahorses

June 25th
We’ll be in the San Blas until Sunday or Monday, then start our journey west to Bocas del Toro. We plan stops at the Rio Chagres, Euero & Escudo de Veraguas arriving in Bocas sometime around the 7th of July.

5/13/10 to 5/19/10

While waiting for our batteries to arrive, we toured the ruins of Fort San Fernando, enjoyed a night out with our fellow cruisers, Kathy got a great hair cut (courtesy of Pam on TishaBaby) & we took part in Panama’s 2010 Census (we don’t quite understand the reason for this.)

Fort San Fernando

Dinner at ‘The Pedestal’ (The crews of TishaBaby, Damiana, Salida, Jolly Witch, Baros, Dixsea)

Our batteries arrived on the 15th as scheduled, and with the help of a nice, young, muscular local, Fred successfully transferred the 520 lbs. of batteries from the taxi to Makai.

Another Successful Boat Project

With the battery installation completed, we headed back to Kuna Yala to meet friends, Mike & Linda (S/V Casa del Mar) who were passing through the islands on their way to Colon.

5/4/10 to 5/12/10

Bocas del Toro is a large archipelago consisting of two bays, eight large islands, 51 cays & over 200 islets. Bocas Town is a fun, laid-back beach community with numerous bars, cafes, restaurants, shops, backpacking hostels, and small hotels.

The primary reason for our impromptu visit to Bocas was to check out the local marinas & make reservations to store Makai during our visit to the States this fall. After visiting two of the three marinas, we made our reservations at the Red Frog, which has recently opened on Isla Bastimentos.

Red Frog Marina

During our brief stay, we had the opportunity to have lunch with friends we had met in Bonaire. Walt & Honoree invited us to come over to Porras Bay for dinner at a home they were house-sitting. The two-hour trip from Bocas Town across Bahia Almirante made us realize the extensiveness & diversity of this archipelago.

We spent two days in Porras Bay enjoying the company & hospitality of these fellow cruisers, as well as catching a small glimpse of what living ‘off the grid’ in Panama may be like.

The View from ‘Camrykaland’ – neighbors Carl & Mary’s beautiful residence

Dinner (L to R: Rick, Honoree, Walt, Kathy, Fred, Mary & Carl)

Exploring the Jim Johnson Estate

Lunch at a local restaurant (L to R: Ami, Walt, Kathy, Fred, Carl, Mary, Rick & Honoree)

The Group in Walt’s ‘Taxi’ (L to R: Rick, Ami, Honoree, Kathy & Walt)

Mr. Fred

After eight short days, we departed Bocas & headed back to Portobello to await delivery of our batteries. The 130-mile overnight passage, one of our worst to date, was wrought with constant thunderstorms, 10 -12 ft short period seas & head winds with gusts to 32 knots.

Arriving in Portobello late in afternoon of the 13th, our spirits were lifted when our friends on Salida & Baros greeted us & wished Kathy a happy birthday! We spent that evening with Liz & Craig enjoying a delicious home cooked meal & appreciating the company of good friends.

4/30/10 to 5/1/10

Our first stop was the Rio Chagres located 6 miles southwest of the Panama Canal. It was exciting to approach the outer anchorage for the Canal Zone & zigzag between the numerous tankers & freighters lying at anchor. As luck would have it, a thunderstorm developed just as we approached the area, so in addition to tracking shipping activity, we were trying to avoid the lightening. Once we passed the Canal, the shipping traffic thinned out & the storm dissipated.

The river’s entrance poses the only navigational difficulty with shallow depths and a reef lying at its center. Once past these obstacles, the river runs deep and shallows only near its banks or at bends. We motored the river’s entire length (6 miles) to look for possible anchorages, as well as take in the beauty of the tropical jungle. The Gatun Dam is located at the terminal end of the river & is the only aspect of the Panama Canal you can see from your boat.

Together with Tara Vana, we anchored at a bend in the river to take advantage of any potential breeze. We spent the remainder of the afternoon & evening on deck watching the sun set, a full moon rise & listening to the sounds of the jungle. What a magical experience!

The next morning, we woke at 5:15 AM to the call of howler monkeys – the jungle’s alarm clock. As we weighed anchor, the predawn colors illuminated the clouds & reflected beautifully on the still water. With a full moon still overhead, we motored toward the river’s entrance, just listening & watching the jungle.

4/28/10 – 4/30/10

With time to spare & provisions running low, we headed southwest to the larger town of Portobello. This seaside town is surrounded by lush green hills and scattered ruins of Spanish forts.

Portobello

The Church of San Felipe de Portobello is located in the center of town & houses the Black Christ of Portobello, a wooden statue of Jesus of Nazareth. Miracles attributed to the statue have drawn followers from across Latin America.

Church of San Felipe de Portobello

The Statue of the Black Christ

We enjoyed walking into town, wandering through the various small markets & checking out the local restaurants.

Happy Hour at ‘The Pedestal’ (L to R: Hans, Craig, Liz, Fred & Linda)

For larger provisioning, Portobello offers easy access via bus or taxi to the large, well-stocked REY supermarkets at Sabanitas or Colon.

After two days at anchor, we made a spontaneous decision to sail west to Bocas Del Toro with friends, Rick & Ami (S/V Tara Vana.) Within an hour, we said farewells to our friends on Salida & Baros & were off.

4/23/10 to 4/27/10

The anchorages at Islas Grande & Linton are a nice day sail from western Kuna Yala. Separated by only a mile, Isla Grande is definitely the more picturesque of the two, with restaurants, small cantinas & hotels lining it’s beachfront. Its only downside is that the anchorage is small & susceptible to swells wrapping the island.

The Beachfront at Isla Grande

Both Isla Grande & the Pamanamarina, a nearby marina, are easily accessible via dinghy from Isla Linton. A French couple owns the marina & their restaurant serves fabulous food at reasonable prices.

Dinghy Cruise Through the Mangrove Channel to Panamarina

It was during our stay at Linton that we discovered our boat’s 8 year-old batteries were finally giving out. After talking with to local distributors, we ordered new batteries through Marine Warehouse, a vendor who purchases products from West Marine in the States & ships them to Panama. The shipment, clearance through Customs & delivery to Panama City was estimated to take 3 weeks.

Feeding One of the Monkeys on Isla Linton

Another Beautiful Sunset

3/2/10 to 4/23/10

(Continued from San Blas Islands (Kuna Yala), Panama Part1)

We have spent the majority of our time exploring the shallows & snorkeling the beautiful reefs surrounding the offshore islands. Although the water clarity is frequently cloudy & slightly green from river runoff, the abundance of fish, corals & invertebrates is amazing.

Underwater Views

The Wreck at Dog Island

Reef at Nubesidup

Fish Pics (larger fish & turtles are very timid due to hunting by Kunas & cruisers)

Fairy Basslet

Juvenile Trunkfish

Spotted Eagle Ray

Ocean Triggerfish

Long Snouted Seahorse

During our time here we’ve had the opportunity to reunite with old cruising friends, as well as make several new acquaintances. One’s social calendar can be kept as full as one wants. The local cruising community is welcoming, informative & very resourceful.

After nearly two months in Kuna Yala, we decided it was time to start our northbound trek towards Honduras & Guatemala’s Rio Dulce where we would wait out the hurricane season. Next stop, the nearby islands of Isla Grande & Linton.

Some more pics!

Fred ‘Landing’ on Porvenir’s Airstrip

Surf’s Up! (Craig & Fred at Chichime)

Cruisers Volunteer for Island Clean Up

Pig Roast at Chichime

Amazingly Musically Talented Cruisers

‘No Mas’ Band’

Tavish & Bradley (S/V High 5)

Kenny & Jessie aboard the ‘Other’ Makai

Use Your Eyes, Not Your Chart plotter! (This is especially true in the easternmost islands)

WiFi Kuna Style (just installed at the West Lemmon Cays)

The Kuna ‘Car Wash’ (off the beach at Myriadup)

Happy Hour Afloat (the crews of Liquid Courage, High 5 & Salida)

Dinner!

Watch Where You Swim! (Crocs have been sighted at Green Island, Carti & just recently in the West Lemmons.)

3/2/10 to 4/23/10

A Sunset in Paradise

The San Blas islands & coastal mountains of northeastern Panama are referred to as Kuna Yala & are home to the indigenous Kuna Indians who have occupied this territory for hundreds of years. Of the 300+ offshore islands, only 49 are occupied. Our travels through this pristine white sand, palm tree lined island chain has given us a brief glimpse of times past.

Some of the Island Anchorages

East Cocos Banderos

Chichime

Green Island

The Kuna appear to have retained their traditional lifestyles, but influences of civilization (cell phones, radio & TVs) can be seen in many of the less traditional villages . The family ‘car’ is the ulu, a large wooden canoe, which is used for work, family transportation or just fun.

Passing Ulus

Most villages are clean & organized around the ‘Congreso’ (town hall) & the ‘Chica’ hut (for spiritual or ritual gatherings.) Family huts are constructed using cane & palm leaves tied together by jungle vines. Each village has three ‘Sailas’ (chiefs) & ‘Congreso’ (village leaders) who oversee & enforce regulations & laws surrounding their land, culture and traditions. Visitors need to request permission from the local ‘Sailas’ before exploring villages, rivers, cemeteries, and inland paths.

Kuna Villages Large & Small (Wichubwala & Chichime)

Fred, Liz & Craig in Wichubwala

The Bakery in Wichubwala

A Small Village at Chichime

Most Kuna, especially the women, shun photography, which is unfortunate as they are beautiful in their traditional dress: long skirts, red & yellow head scarves, beads wrapping the legs & wrists & blouses with twin molas on the front & back.

Kuna Women

Kuna live simply through subsistence farming of local fruits & vegetables, harvesting of coconuts, raising pigs & chicken & fishing the local waters. The coconuts are sold to passing Columbian trading boats in exchange for basic food staples, and lobster, crabs & octopus are exported to foreign markets. Visiting yachts can purchase basic food items from small stores on some of the larger islands, or wait for the weekly ‘veggie boat’, which sells a variety of fruits, vegetables, eggs, beer, wine, and occasionally chicken, flour, bread & margarine. You can also buy fish, lobster, octopus & crabs from local Kuna fishermen.

A Local Veggie Boat

Kuna Fishermen

Women make money selling ‘molas’, which are multi-layer fabric panels with reverse appliqué’ & embroidery. Each mola is unique & shows abstract forms of birds, animals, marine life or traditional geometric patterns. Molas are a unique Kuna tradition & are considered Panama’s most famous handicraft. Kuna Yala is a matriarchal society. Women control the money & husbands move into the woman’s family compound.

Molas, Molas, Molas

Lisa (a Master Mola maker from Rio Sidra)

Dalys, Umileth & Rusibela (they live on Miriadiadup in the Central Holandes)

Venancio (another ‘Master’ sells molas made by himself & his family)

(This entry continues, see San Blas Islands (Kuna Yala), Panama Part 2)