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Los Roques

In: Our Journey

17 Jun 2009

6/17/09 to 6/30/09

Sunset Departing Blanquilla
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After the 125-mile passage from Blanquilla, we navigated our way slowly through the reef entrance of Boca de Sebastopol and anchored off the small mangrove island of Buchiyaco.

Buchiyaco
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The islands of Los Roques are separated by deep-water channels, shoals & sand spits that create an amazing tapestry of blues, greens & whites. Our photos do not do justice to the absolute beauty we encountered.

Azure Blues
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One of the Several Wrecks on the Outer Reef
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The next morning, we sailed north to the largest island, El Gran Roque. After anchoring just off the town, we gathered our clearance papers, passports & Spanish-English dictionary and headed ashore to check in with the Coast Guards. We got off to a rocky start when our initial request for 14 days was politely denied. After further discussion, a two-night stay was approved once we had clearance from the National Guard, Park Service & the Los Roques Authority. This check-in process led us through the town, which to our surprise was more developed than expected. There were several small hotels, restaurants, shops, markets, a bakery, water-sports rental & an airport with connecting flights to both Isla Margarita & the mainland.

Linda & Kathy with Commander Julio
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In & Around El Gran Roques
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The following day we sailed northeast to the small, mangrove-lined island of Nordisqui. The outlying reefs separate the small island from the Caribbean Sea & create interesting shoals & deep pools.

The Anchorage at Nordisqui
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Exploring the Pool
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Next we hopped over to Noronsquis, a group of 3 small islands enclosing a blue lagoon. The snorkeling along the outside north-facing reef was exceptional, but cut short when five curious reef sharks decided to join us. During our snorkel our underwater cameras failed (one terminal, the other just low batteries), so all were left with are wonderful memories.

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Our visit to Noronsqui del Medio (the middle island) was not well received by a flock of terns who let us know we were ‘invading’ their turf.

Watch out Mike & Fred! (The tall ones are easier targets)
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Continuing west, our next stop was the small island of Sarqui. We snorkeled the inner & outer reef (neither of them as nice as Noronsquis) & explored the beaches, shallows banks & mangrove-lined shores of Sarqui & Espenqui.

Dinghy Trip Around the Island
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Casa at Anchor in Sarqui
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In search of better snorkeling, we moved over to the small anchorage off the eastern end of Isla Careneros.

Dinghy Excursion Along Careneros’ West Coast
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Underwater at Los Careneros’ southern reef
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Our next stop were the small islands of Dos Mosquises, home to both a research center & an Amerindian cultural center. Run by Fundacion Cientifica Los Roques, the research station and turtle sanctuary that focus on conservation of the islands sea turtle population. In addition to housing hatchlings until one-year of age, the sanctuary treats turtles for skin diseases & other maladies.

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The nearby Interpretive Center documents in photographs the archeological discovery of Valencoid (pre-Columbian Amerindian) figurines & fragments. Almost 25% of all known Valenciod artifacts have been discovered at Dos Mosquises.

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Our last stop in Los Roques was the small island of Cayo de Agua. After navigating around coral heads & shallow banks, we dropped anchor in 9 feet of water, just off a beautiful white sand beach. Although building trade winds made the outlying reefs untenable, the inner reefs housed an amazing diversity of sea life.

Cayo de Agua – Above
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Cayo de Agua – Below
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After a full day of exploration & snorkeling, we were treated to another gorgeous sunset.

Casa at Cayo de Agua
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“Makai” is a Hawiian word that means ‘to go towards the sea’

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