3/2/10 to 4/23/10

A Sunset in Paradise

The San Blas islands & coastal mountains of northeastern Panama are referred to as Kuna Yala & are home to the indigenous Kuna Indians who have occupied this territory for hundreds of years. Of the 300+ offshore islands, only 49 are occupied. Our travels through this pristine white sand, palm tree lined island chain has given us a brief glimpse of times past.

Some of the Island Anchorages

East Cocos Banderos

Chichime

Green Island

The Kuna appear to have retained their traditional lifestyles, but influences of civilization (cell phones, radio & TVs) can be seen in many of the less traditional villages . The family ‘car’ is the ulu, a large wooden canoe, which is used for work, family transportation or just fun.

Passing Ulus

Most villages are clean & organized around the ‘Congreso’ (town hall) & the ‘Chica’ hut (for spiritual or ritual gatherings.) Family huts are constructed using cane & palm leaves tied together by jungle vines. Each village has three ‘Sailas’ (chiefs) & ‘Congreso’ (village leaders) who oversee & enforce regulations & laws surrounding their land, culture and traditions. Visitors need to request permission from the local ‘Sailas’ before exploring villages, rivers, cemeteries, and inland paths.

Kuna Villages Large & Small (Wichubwala & Chichime)

Fred, Liz & Craig in Wichubwala

The Bakery in Wichubwala

A Small Village at Chichime

Most Kuna, especially the women, shun photography, which is unfortunate as they are beautiful in their traditional dress: long skirts, red & yellow head scarves, beads wrapping the legs & wrists & blouses with twin molas on the front & back.

Kuna Women

Kuna live simply through subsistence farming of local fruits & vegetables, harvesting of coconuts, raising pigs & chicken & fishing the local waters. The coconuts are sold to passing Columbian trading boats in exchange for basic food staples, and lobster, crabs & octopus are exported to foreign markets. Visiting yachts can purchase basic food items from small stores on some of the larger islands, or wait for the weekly ‘veggie boat’, which sells a variety of fruits, vegetables, eggs, beer, wine, and occasionally chicken, flour, bread & margarine. You can also buy fish, lobster, octopus & crabs from local Kuna fishermen.

A Local Veggie Boat

Kuna Fishermen

Women make money selling ‘molas’, which are multi-layer fabric panels with reverse appliqué’ & embroidery. Each mola is unique & shows abstract forms of birds, animals, marine life or traditional geometric patterns. Molas are a unique Kuna tradition & are considered Panama’s most famous handicraft. Kuna Yala is a matriarchal society. Women control the money & husbands move into the woman’s family compound.

Molas, Molas, Molas

Lisa (a Master Mola maker from Rio Sidra)

Dalys, Umileth & Rusibela (they live on Miriadiadup in the Central Holandes)

Venancio (another ‘Master’ sells molas made by himself & his family)

(This entry continues, see San Blas Islands (Kuna Yala), Panama Part 2)