Makai

3/2/10 to 4/23/10

(Continued from San Blas Islands (Kuna Yala), Panama Part1)

We have spent the majority of our time exploring the shallows & snorkeling the beautiful reefs surrounding the offshore islands. Although the water clarity is frequently cloudy & slightly green from river runoff, the abundance of fish, corals & invertebrates is amazing.

Underwater Views

The Wreck at Dog Island

Reef at Nubesidup

Fish Pics (larger fish & turtles are very timid due to hunting by Kunas & cruisers)

Fairy Basslet

Juvenile Trunkfish

Spotted Eagle Ray

Ocean Triggerfish

Long Snouted Seahorse

During our time here we’ve had the opportunity to reunite with old cruising friends, as well as make several new acquaintances. One’s social calendar can be kept as full as one wants. The local cruising community is welcoming, informative & very resourceful.

After nearly two months in Kuna Yala, we decided it was time to start our northbound trek towards Honduras & Guatemala’s Rio Dulce where we would wait out the hurricane season. Next stop, the nearby islands of Isla Grande & Linton.

Some more pics!

Fred ‘Landing’ on Porvenir’s Airstrip

Surf’s Up! (Craig & Fred at Chichime)

Cruisers Volunteer for Island Clean Up

Pig Roast at Chichime

Amazingly Musically Talented Cruisers

‘No Mas’ Band’

Tavish & Bradley (S/V High 5)

Kenny & Jessie aboard the ‘Other’ Makai

Use Your Eyes, Not Your Chart plotter! (This is especially true in the easternmost islands)

WiFi Kuna Style (just installed at the West Lemmon Cays)

The Kuna ‘Car Wash’ (off the beach at Myriadup)

Happy Hour Afloat (the crews of Liquid Courage, High 5 & Salida)

Dinner!

Watch Where You Swim! (Crocs have been sighted at Green Island, Carti & just recently in the West Lemmons.)

3/2/10 to 4/23/10

A Sunset in Paradise

The San Blas islands & coastal mountains of northeastern Panama are referred to as Kuna Yala & are home to the indigenous Kuna Indians who have occupied this territory for hundreds of years. Of the 300+ offshore islands, only 49 are occupied. Our travels through this pristine white sand, palm tree lined island chain has given us a brief glimpse of times past.

Some of the Island Anchorages

East Cocos Banderos

Chichime

Green Island

The Kuna appear to have retained their traditional lifestyles, but influences of civilization (cell phones, radio & TVs) can be seen in many of the less traditional villages . The family ‘car’ is the ulu, a large wooden canoe, which is used for work, family transportation or just fun.

Passing Ulus

Most villages are clean & organized around the ‘Congreso’ (town hall) & the ‘Chica’ hut (for spiritual or ritual gatherings.) Family huts are constructed using cane & palm leaves tied together by jungle vines. Each village has three ‘Sailas’ (chiefs) & ‘Congreso’ (village leaders) who oversee & enforce regulations & laws surrounding their land, culture and traditions. Visitors need to request permission from the local ‘Sailas’ before exploring villages, rivers, cemeteries, and inland paths.

Kuna Villages Large & Small (Wichubwala & Chichime)

Fred, Liz & Craig in Wichubwala

The Bakery in Wichubwala

A Small Village at Chichime

Most Kuna, especially the women, shun photography, which is unfortunate as they are beautiful in their traditional dress: long skirts, red & yellow head scarves, beads wrapping the legs & wrists & blouses with twin molas on the front & back.

Kuna Women

Kuna live simply through subsistence farming of local fruits & vegetables, harvesting of coconuts, raising pigs & chicken & fishing the local waters. The coconuts are sold to passing Columbian trading boats in exchange for basic food staples, and lobster, crabs & octopus are exported to foreign markets. Visiting yachts can purchase basic food items from small stores on some of the larger islands, or wait for the weekly ‘veggie boat’, which sells a variety of fruits, vegetables, eggs, beer, wine, and occasionally chicken, flour, bread & margarine. You can also buy fish, lobster, octopus & crabs from local Kuna fishermen.

A Local Veggie Boat

Kuna Fishermen

Women make money selling ‘molas’, which are multi-layer fabric panels with reverse appliqué’ & embroidery. Each mola is unique & shows abstract forms of birds, animals, marine life or traditional geometric patterns. Molas are a unique Kuna tradition & are considered Panama’s most famous handicraft. Kuna Yala is a matriarchal society. Women control the money & husbands move into the woman’s family compound.

Molas, Molas, Molas

Lisa (a Master Mola maker from Rio Sidra)

Dalys, Umileth & Rusibela (they live on Miriadiadup in the Central Holandes)

Venancio (another ‘Master’ sells molas made by himself & his family)

(This entry continues, see San Blas Islands (Kuna Yala), Panama Part 2)

If World Geography was not one of your favorite classes in school, here are some maps of Panama & Central America for reference. Unfortunately, the map of Panama shows just a few of the western San Blas Islands (Kuna Yala), when in actuality the 300 + islands of this archipelago stretch over 200 miles eastward from Porvenir.

Panama

Central America

2/20/10 to 2/27/10
Our plans to depart Cartagena for the San Blas on the 19th were delayed when our friend, Craig (S/V Salida), discovered a serious crack in one of their fuel tanks. As they waited for a new tank to be fabricated, we headed to the Rosarios Islands, 20 miles southwest of Cartagena. We spent the next 5 days washing the boat (inside & out), making water, and removing barnacles from our propellers, anchor chain & bridle.

We returned to Cartagena on the 25th, staying just long enough to do laundry & top up provisions. On the 27th, we’ll sail back to the Rosarios (to clean the boat again), then continue west to the remote islands of the San Blas (Panama) & the home the Kuna Indians.

We expect our next update to this website to be some time in May when we get to Boca del Toras, Panama. Until then, we wish you fair winds & following seas.

The Anchorage East of Punta Villalobos, Isla Grande

2/8/10 to 2/20/10

We departed Oranjestad early Friday afternoon & 51 hours later, we were 345 NM southwest of Aruba motor sailing along Columbia’s northern coast. Unable to make Cartagena by sunset, we anchored for the evening in the large bay at Punta Hermosa. It was a relief to have unseasonably calm conditions, unlike fellow cruisers (Adrian & Leslie aboard S/V Lalize) who departed 5 days before us & encountered 40 knot winds & 20 ft seas off the northern coast. Timing is everything!

Cartagena Offshore

The initial view of Cartagena’s high-rise skyline is somewhat surreal after cruising the Eastern Caribbean & Netherland Antilles. After clearing the small cut in the underwater wall (a colonial era defense fortification), we entered the Bahia de Cartagena & made our way through the marked channel to the anchorage southwest of Club Nautico Marina. As the boat swings with the tide, we have a view of the ‘Old City’ or ‘Walled City’ (outgoing tide) & the commercial port & cruise ship terminal (incoming tide.) The holding is fair to poor in smelly, sludge-like mud. The neighborhood surrounding the marina is middle-class & safe to walk about. A few blocks away, there’s a very nice supermarket, an ATM, deli, internet café & laundry services.

The Anchorage off Club Nautico

The Centero Historico (Old Town or Walled City) is a short 10-minute walk from the marina & takes you by several restaurants, the convention center, a colonial church, statues & the Plaza del Centenario (Central Park.) The primary entrance into the historic district is through the Clock Tower, a beautiful & grand architectural structure. Walking into the ‘Walled City’ is like stepping back in time – cobblestone streets, beautiful colonial buildings, tranquil plazas, fountains, sculptures, horse-drawn carriages, and balconies overflowing with flowers.

The Clock Tower entrance

During our 12-day stay we visited the Gold Museum, Naval Museum, Modern Art Museum, the Cathedral, all seven public plazas, the Hotel Santa Clara (a converted nunnery), San Felipe Fortress & the Monastery (Covent De La Popa). In between the historic sites, we frequented several restaurants, cafes & bakeries. We now understand how cruisers can stay months, or return year after year to the beautiful city.

Gold Museum (artifacts of the Zenu, a pre-Columbian society & master goldsmiths)

The Cathedral de Cartagena

The beautifully restored Hotel Santa Clara & their Toucans

San Felipe Fortress

Exploring the Fort by Day

Streets of Cartagena

Afro-Columbian dancers

The Mothership?? (L to R: Fred, Craig, Devon & Don)

1/24/10 to 2/5/10

We departed Santa Cruz Bay before dawn & endured a wallowing, bumpy, downwind sail to Aruba. We anchored just north of Oranjestad’s airport. This bay is relatively large & exposed to wind chop & swell wrapping the reef. With winds averaging 20-25 knots, it was a wet ride via dinghy into & out of the Renaissance Marina.

Makai at anchor in Oranjestad

Aruba is a major tourist resort destination with multiple large cruise ships lining the docks & an almost constant flow of planes arriving & departing (8 AM to 7 PM.) High-end stores (Gucci, Versace, etc.), jewelry & electronic stores, restaurants, cafes & open-air stalls line the main streets of downtown Oranjestad. The shopping center adjacent to the marina has a movie theater with reclining seats & a Starbucks Coffee shop! What more can you ask for? The bus system is the best of the three (ABC) islands, allowing easy & cheap access to most of the island.

Together with Liz & Craig, we rented a car & drove around the island one day visiting various tourist attractions & getting the lay of the land. In a nutshell, the northwest coast is home to Aruba’s famous white sand beaches, resorts & time-share condominiums. The Arikok National Park covers 18% of the island (central & southeastern coast) & has several historical, cultural & natural landmarks such as ruins, Indian petroglyphs, hieroglyphs, natural rock bridges & caves. Aruba’s second largest town, San Nicholas, lies at the southern end of the island & centers around the Valero Oil Refinery Company, a site you can’t miss (sight or smell) on approach from Curacao. San Nicholas is also home to Charlie’s Bar. This is a must-see on the tourist circuit, as it’s Aruba’s oldest (1941) & most famous bar decorated with an eclectic collection of marine salvage, license plates, ice skates, boomerangs, dolls & puppets, masks, photos, dollar bills, cards, notes, drawings & maps. Definitely unique!

California Lighthouse

Eastern Coastline

Stalagmite Formation (supposedly a buffalo??)

Cave Dwellers

Charlie’s Bar

Despite the fact that the people of Aruba are some of the nicest we’ve met to date & the island holds promise of endless activities & the creature comforts of home; we couldn’t really see ourselves ‘parked’ here for the next 2-3 months. But where do we go? This time of year there is little opportunity to head east to Bonaire or north to Puerto Rico. Heading south to Venezuela was not an option. Therefore after much discussion, we decided to continue west towards Columbia & Panama. The 400-mile passage from Aruba to Cartagena is known for the worst weather conditions in the Caribbean & is among the top five worst passages around the world. With unseasonably calm weather forecasted for February 5th to the 8th, we spent our last few days in Aruba preparing the boat & ourselves for the passage. On February 4th, the crew of Liquid Courage (Don & his friend Devon) arrived from Curacao to join our westward bound flotilla.

We’re somewhat anxious regarding this passage, but excited to be heading to the Western Caribbean – it should be a great adventure! Where’s my Spanish dictionary?

1/5/10 to 1/24/10

We planned a brief stop in Curacao to pick up a Fed Ex package & top-up provisions, but high winds & seas kept us ‘holed’ up in Spanish Waters for almost 3 weeks.

When the forecast called for a 48-hour period of moderating conditions, we sailed north along Curacao’s western coast & anchored in Santa Cruz Bay for an evening. This stop shortens the crossing to Aruba by 20 miles & offers the first opportunity to swim & snorkel in clear water! The small bay has good holding (on the northwestern side), protection from current & swells, a quaint beachside facility & small restaurant. It’s unfortunate we could only stay 1 night.

11/18/09 to 1/4/2010

We enjoyed a brisk sail from Klein Curacao back to Bonaire. Immediately upon securing a mooring, we were in the water. Our plan was simple: spend 2 to 3 weeks scuba diving, tour the island with Liz & Craig & decide where to sail this season. So what were we doing there more than 6 weeks later? Well, let’s just say we were learning first hand the true definition of cruising – the repair or fixing of boats in foreign ports. Without going into great & smelly detail, let me say Fred wore many hats. Being less mechanically & electrically inclined, I was his faithful & ‘quiet’ assistant.

Fred – The ‘Fix-It’ Man

Thanksgiving aboard Makai

In between the boat projects, we managed to fit in 21 dives, in addition to snorkeling & touring the island. One day I spent the morning walking the beaches of Klein Bonaire with three other cruising women & Funchi, a Field Specialist from Bonaire’s Sea Turtle Conservation organization. We were fortunate to bare witness to the hatching of 149 Hawksbill sea turtles. It was truly amazing to watch these small creatures emerge & follow their instinctual drive towards the sea. It was an awe-inspiring event.

Sea Turtle Hatching

With the majority of the projects completed, we enjoyed a nice, low-key Christmas Eve & Christmas Day with Liz & Craig. During the next week, Fred installed the watermaker hose & with Craig’s assistance, installed a new canvas bimini and stack pack. We finished 2009 on a ‘high’ with two outstanding dives at ‘Keepsake’ off Klein Bonaire.

On New Year’s Eve after a Cruiser’s happy hour & early dinner, we returned to the boat where we had front row seats for what looked like an island-wide firework show. It was a beautiful & exciting start to the new year!

New Year’s Gathering & Fireworks

On January 4th, just two days prior to the expiration of our immigration status, we departed Bonaire & sailed west to Curacao. Our plans from there….well you know what they say about plans. Till our next update, Happy New Years to all!

The Reason We Love Bonaire – Diving!

11/2/09 to 11/17/09

We spent the first 2 weeks on the hard preparing ‘Makai’ for our 4th cruising season. It was hot, humid & buggy! Even the locals were complaining.

On November 17th we cast-off our dock lines & headed south to Klein Curacao with Liz & Craig (S/V Salida.) It’s great to be afloat!

Dinner with Friends (Fred, Anne, Liz, Craig & Steve)

It’s Not All Fun (changing the starboard engine shaft seal)

‘Tis the Season (one of two cruise ships in port)

A ‘Secure’ Anchorage at Klein Bonaire (a Dutch Coast Guard Cutter & Salida)

9/15/09 to 11/1/09

Backtracking through Colorado gave us the opportunity to stop & visit with Alden & Bernadette again. On one of their days off, we enjoyed a ride around town. Thanks Alden & Bern for two fun-filled visits!

After saying our farewells, we departed Evergreen & headed back to Pagosa Springs to visit with Kathy’s sister once more. Colorado is spectacular in the fall – the leaves are turning, the days are warm & the nights are cool & crisp. Definitely a different climate than what we’ll be returning to in the Caribbean.

With 8 days to spare, we headed south to Queen Creek, AZ to visit with the Rohrer’s (Mike, Randi, Doug & Kaitlyn.) We arrived just in time to attend an ASU football game & a pre-game tailgater party (sponsored by Mike’s employer, the Haydon Building Corporation.)

The tailgater party at the Sun Devil Stadium!

Go ASU!!

Doug (quite the musician) entertained us in his downstairs ’studio’

Kaitlyn & Fawny in the Gilbert Parade (taken after our departure)

While in AZ, we received a call from Carla & Dan, friends & fellow cruisers (S/V Alegria), who we last saw in Grenada in 2008. They too were touring the U.S. this summer & wanted to meet us in Sedona the following day. It was great to see them & catch up on events & trips to date. Once back aboard Alegria (currently berthed in Aruba), they’ll be heading west to Cartegena, Columbia & the San Blas Islands.

Carla, Dan, Tristan & Tessa relaxing inside ‘Awesome’ (their 31′ rental camper)

Group photo in Sedona

Back in Queen Creek, we continued our visit with the Rohrer’s offering assistance with chores around the ‘ranch’ (feeding & watering 4 horses, 10+ cats, chickens & their dog, Igloo (Lou) who finally decided to tolerate our presence.) We had such a good time & a wonderful visit!!

Kathy gets her ‘horse fix’!

Unfortunately time was running out, so we said our reluctant goodbyes & set out on the road once again. Our final stop was Hemet, CA to visit with our parents a second time.

We spent the month of October visiting with family, friends & the dermatologist (not so much fun.) On 11/2, with our luggage barely making the maximum weight & size requirements, we departed LAX & headed back to Willemstad, Curacao.

Miscellaneous Pic’s of Friends & Family

Dinner at Taco Surf with Liz & Craig (S/V Salida)

Fred with Maria & Jim (S/V MagnifiCat) in Oakland, CA

Doug Cline’s Big Birthday Celebration

A bouquet of basil from Eileen

Our niece Michelle with a new hair cut

‘Gotcha’ (our niece Katelyn doing some homework)

Celebrating Uncle Jim’s birthday

Fred & I with Fred’s sister, Kathy